Hiking Gear Buying Guides - Coolhikinggear.com

Leather vs. Synthetic Hiking Boots, Which is Better?

I was thinking recently about the pros and cons of the traditional leather hiking boot versus some it’s synthetic counterparts, in terms of its material construction. Before going any further, I think it useful for me to define what I mean by a traditional leather hiking boot and a synthetic hiking boot.

To me, a traditional hiking boot is the leather alpine style boot, like the one pictured above, which have been around for years. A synthetic hiking boot is one that may have a more technical look and will usually consist of textile only or a greater mix of textile and leather materials in the construction, like the one pictured below.

HiTec Mens Bandera Mid WP Hiking Boot Featured Image

The main construction material options for hiking boots are broadly summarized below:

Full Grain Leather
Nubuck Leather
Synthetic MAterials

Tough and durable leather with great abrasion resistance, as well as natural water resistance and breathability. Ideally used for wetter climates and rugged terrain. Can come in different thicknesses depending on what hiking you want to use the boots for.

I should state at the outset, that while I definitely have a preference which I won’t reveal till we reach the conclusion, I have over the years utilized both the traditional leather and more modern synthetic types of hiking boots. I thought I would walk through some of the obvious categories for comparison to see how they both fair in comparison.

Weight

A practical consideration for any pair of hiking boots is weight. This can be more relevant for certain types of hiking than others. For example, if you are planning to do a lot of backpacking, a sturdy but ideally lighter hiking boot could be preferable.

In my experience, in terms of weight, as a general rule, the more modern hiking boots constructed using a mix of leather and more synthetic materials and textiles are typically lighter than the traditional Alpine style full leather boots. There are exceptions on both sides of this equation but this has been what I have found overall. A fully synthetic pair of hiking boots will be lighter in weight, but you will lose out in other categories.

Stability

Given that the traditional leather Alpine hiking boot is usually heavier, I have also generally found the traditional style of leather hiking boots provide more stability over varying terrain. Again, there are exceptions and the overall construction of the whole hiking boot has a lot to do with this. However, that said, on a longer term basis I think leather is a tougher material that molds better to the shape of a foot than synthetic materials. It remains stronger for longer and with that in mind, I give this one to the traditional leather hiking boot.

Style and Look

This is one that I personally feel is a big one. It’s probably just good old fashioned conditioning but it is hard to not think of hiking when you look at a traditional style leather hiking boot. That style and design has been around for a very long time and so is just associated with hiking … I think of the Alps and I think of a fine pair of leather Alpine hiking boots 🙂

The synthetic style boots broadly speaking aim for a more modern and technical look or aim to mimic the traditional leather style. You can of course get a very technical looking hybrid that utilises both leather and textiles.

At the end of the day, this is down to personal taste and preference. For me, I think it’s very hard to beat the look of a traditional leather hiking boot. It is pleasing to the eye and looks the part. As this is a personal preference, so I will call this one a draw.

Waterproof Capabilities

A large part of any hiking boots waterproof capabilities comes from the lining which is often made from a specific waterproof material like Gore-tex. Nearly all hiking boots will have this lining. However, leaving the lining aside, the question here is whether an upper made 100% from full grain leather or one that is 100% synthetic, or a combination of the two, provides a better option in terms of being waterproof.

I will always come down on the side of the 100% leather option but the quality and type of the leather used plays a big part in that statement. Generally speaking though, the leather boots win out against synthetic.

Breathability

Most hiking boots these days will have an inner liner that is both waterproof and breathable. In that regard, most well designed hiking boots should have some level of breathability. However, leather is skin at the the end of the day and so has some level of natural breathability in it. However, by design and construction, synthetic materials can be adapted to allow a much better airflow inside hiking boots. In that regard, it could be argued that synthetic materials are better in terms of breathability.

However, you need to look at things in their entirety and in the right context. That is, if you’re planning to always do your hiking in warm and dry weather, mainly over well established paths and trails, you may think about sacrificing the other advantages that leather hiking boots can provide to be able to enjoy a better ventilated pair of hiking boots. It’s rarely that simple though 🙂

Price

At the end of the day, any top pair of hiking boots will likely have leather in its construction to some degree. The question becomes more, are the uppers 100% made from leather or a mix of leather and textiles. As a general rule, a good solid pair of leather hiking boots will cost more than something that is either made wholly from synthetic materials or a mix of both synthetic and leather. Leather is a more expensive material and so usually means a more expensive pair of hiking boots.

Break In Time

Nearly all new boots or shoes need to be broken in, to some degree. When it comes to leather vs. synthetic hiking boots, in the early stages synthetic will usually be the winner. Leather is of course a much tougher material than the synthetic materials used for hiking boots, so it logically will take longer to break leather in. However, what you may gain in the short term you may lose in the long term in terms of abrasion and wear and tear. On the cold number of breaking in alone, your feet will usually adapt much quicker to synthetic material boots than leather.

Durability

In terms of durability, I would say there is no real contest. Hiking boots made from quality leather are tougher and more durable. As a natural fiber, leather is more resilient and will withstand abrasion over time much better than hiking boots made from synthetic materials. This is borne out in the fact that many top quality leather hiking boots can be resoled if the leather upper is taken good care of. It is not uncommon for good leather boots to last for many, many years if you replace the soles. Synthetic hiking boots on the other hand, have a shelf life and when they’re done, they’re done.

meindl-vakuum-gtx-hiking-boots-for-men-in-the-field-2

Other Considerations

One other thing worth mentioning is related to your diet preferences. ‘Huh?’ I hear you say. Yes indeed … if you are a vegetarian or a vegan, a synthetic hiking boot may be more in line with your principles than one made from leather, which of course comes from animals.

Not relevant to all but most likely relevant to some so I wanted to add that in as a note here. While not directly related to the performance of the types of hiking boots against one another as such, it is still a valid point worth adding into the mix.

Conclusion

In conclusion, when it comes to leather vs. synthetic hiking boots, my personal preference is hands down, a top notch leather pair of hiking boots. I just can’t really see how synthetic hiking boots can compete in terms of functionality. However, there can be exceptions as outlined above e.g. hiking in really hot weather on well established trails.

While leather is my favorite, in summer I do sometimes use a hybrid mix in hiking boots with an upper made of nubuck leather and some synthetic materials. As outlined above, they are a bit lighter and definitely more breathable for a hotter time of year.

At the end of the day, it’s your personal preference but if you are looking for a quality pair of hiking boots, you will nearly always end up with some element of leather involved in the construction of the upper, if they are not 100% leather.

I hope you found this article useful and maybe even thought provoking. What do you prefer, leather or synthetic hiking boots? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below.

How To Choose The Best Insoles For Hiking Boots And Shoes

I received a comment from a gentleman last week on my review of the Lowa Lo hiking shoes, where he stated that he couldn’t understand where the comfort of the shoes, that I was referring to in the review, was coming from. He stated, rightly so, that the insoles of the shoe were too thin for him and just wearing them in his house for a couple of hours was hurting him.

Now, my experience with the Lowa Lo, hasn’t been like that at all. On the contrary, I find the shoes very comfortable. I also tend to like a thinner insole (within reason of course), I find too much padding can lead to problems for me.

Either way, what I want to illustrate with this example is simply that, no one size or preference will work for all. I have no doubt the insoles in the Lowa Lo he had just bought were causing him discomfort. Sometimes, as crazy as it sounds, even insoles, depending on the type they are need to be broken in but other times, they just aren’t the right fit for your feet.

I suggested to him to, if he was otherwise happy with the shoes, to consider getting a new pair of insoles. Failing that, his best course of action was to return them for a refund. With that in mind I thought it would be useful to investigate the insole side of that advice some more and explore what insole options there are available.

The range and types of people’s feet are as wide and varied as the many types of hiking boots there are available. From flat feet to high arches, from narrow feet to broad feet and a myriad of things in-between, there is a large amount of possible options. So it is not surprising that there are a lot of different types of insole available.

If you find yourself not 100% comfortable in any pair of hiking boots, reviewing the insoles is one possible solution that might help improve your comfort factor without having to go down the road of custom made hiking boots or buying a new pair.

Signs that you may Need New Insoles

To start with, let’s look at some signs that you might need new insoles for your hiking boots. At the extreme end, it will be fairly obvious a pair of insoles in a pair of hiking boots isn’t working well i.e. it will be sore and painful while walking in them.

However there are many destinations along the way to this extreme and you may never get that bad. Although as soon as you notice anything, you should aim to correct it as soon as possible, as continued use could lead to more acute problems down the line.

If, for example, you are out hiking and you notice that your ankles and feet are getting fatigued and feel achy more easily than you would expect. That can be a sign that your insoles aren’t up to scratch. Similarly, blisters and hot spots can also result due to ill-fitting insoles.

Please also keep in mind that pain may not necessarily manifest in your feet or ankles, you can experience pain in your back or legs while hiking that can be a result of issues coming from the feet area.

Generally speaking, you’ll know yourself after using your hiking boots on a long hike, just be sure to pay attention and listen to what your body is telling you, it is rarely wrong.

Aside from that, insoles can just wear down after consistent use over time, just like the ones in my old Scarpa boots in the picture at the start of this article, and they just need to be replaced like anything else after a lot of miles have been put in.

What are the Different Types of Insole Available?

When you’ve established that you may need new insoles, broadly speaking, there are two different types of Insole to consider for hiking boots (or indeed most kinds of shoes). The first kind offers a more rigid fit and focuses on providing support, while the second has a more cushioned sole and focuses on shock absorption.

When it comes to the first kind which offers more support, think of someone who has a high arch vs. someone who has flat feet as an illustrative example. You can easily see that a hiking boot that is comfortable for someone with flat feet may be very uncomfortable for someone with a high arch, as their feet require different support at different levels. The problem here is structural support. For the second type of insole, the focus is on shock absorption and so it has more to do with cushioning.

A handy way to think of the difference is that a rigid structural insole encourages your feet to mold to the insole to provide stability and structure, while a cushioned insole molds to your feet to provide more cushioning. Insoles will also typically have anti-odor, bacteria characteristics to help your boots stay fresher.

How Your Feet Move

Next it’s worth thinking about how your feet actually move. Broadly speaking, your feet have two main motions, pronation and supination. Everyone pronates and supinates to one degree or another. Of course, some will pronate more than others and so on, depending on the way their feet are.

The post linked to just above covers this topic in more detail. However for the purposes of this post, in brief, pronation is the body’s way of absorbing shock and so your foot expands as you walk on flat ground. With supination, which provides a natural support for the body, the foot roles outwards to provide lift to push forward. Both are part of your ‘gait’, or the way you walk. The video below also gives a simple explanation of pronation and supination.

To get a better idea of how you walk, for most people, any good outdoor gear or running store should be able to help you figure out whether you over pronate, over supinate, sit in the middle, etc. For more extreme cases, you may need to see a foot specialist where they will perform a computerized gait analysis and so on. To get you started, you can do the wet test to get an idea of what type of feet you have.

What Insoles do Hiking Boots Typically Come With

In short, it seems to vary as best as I can tell. They will tend to have a mix of both kinds to try and suit the majority of people. However, a more rigid insole seems to me to be the more common as it is I assume, and in my opinion, generally better for hiking. Some insoles in hiking boots can leave a lot to be desired though.

It’s worth noting, some boot and shoe makers, for example, Merrell, will have their own special trademark technology for insoles e.g. Ortholite foot beds. As far as I understand it, these are leaning more towards the world of orthotics as they are more specialized, and so could be very comfortable.

The insoles in most hiking boots will be removable so you can take them out to be aired, handy when you need to clean your boots after a hard day on the trail. This also means you can easily replace them or place more insoles on top of the existing insole.

Profile Guides

Insoles broadly can be explained by the profiles listed below:

Profile	Description
Low Profile	This if for people who require low arch support. If you have good arches a low profile insole could be the ticket
Medium Profile	The medium profile, aka slightly flat footed, is probably the most common. A medium profile insole will offer great support for most people and most foot types
High Profile	This is for people who have flat feet. If your foot pronates more rather than supinates then a high profile insole can help you build up your arch support

As well as this, sometimes, there will be a reference to volume. What this means, is that it references the amount of volume (or space) needed in a walking boot or shoe, when combined with the existing insole i.e. sometimes it can be added to the existing insole.

Volume	Description
Low Volume	This insole should fit all types of low volume shoes e.g. cycling shoes as an example
Medium Volume	Should fit some hiking boots and shoes including boots with fixed insoles
High Volume	This will only fit “roomy” insoles i.e. you can take the manufacturer’s insole out (pretty standard in most decent hiking boots). Probably the most common choice for use with hiking boots

Getting a Proper Fit

Once you’ve worked out your profile, either instore or via the wet test, as you’re getting insoles for already problematic boots, a good fit is critical. Outlined below are some tips on how best to get a good fit from an insole:

Check if your heel fits inside the heel cup, and doesn’t spill over the edge
If the insole is too narrow, try going up a size
If your toes extend beyond the end of the foam forefoot, also try to go up a size

Insoles are normally cut to match your feet so they will normally be big compared to your feet and you adjust accordingly. Take your time with getting the cut right. Do too little rather than too much as there is no undoing it if you make a mistake and cut too much off!

Popular and Functional Insole Options

Below I have listed some popular insole options from two well-known insole companies, Superfeet and Sorbothane. Superfeet are more to do with the first kind of insoles i.e. for more rigid feet to provide arch and structural stability and support. Sorbothane, focus on impact absorption providing more cushioning in particular parts of the insole.

Superfeet

Let’s start with looking at the Superfeet options, please note there are more options available but these are three of the more common ones in available.

Superfeet Green

The Superfeet Green are for folks with high arches and will fit most roomy footwear styles where the factory insoles can be removed. These can help with common foot pain like arch pain, heel pain & plantar fasciitis.

Superfeet Green Insoles

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Superfeet Blue

Superfeet blue are a Medium-arched insole for people who require intermediate support. They will fit most footwear, including hiking boots, without much extra room. Again, they can be used to help with common foot pain, arch pain, heel pain & plantar fasciitis.

Superfeet Blue Insoles

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Superfeet Black

You can probably guess what type of feet these are for 🙂 Yes, the Superfeet black are a low-arched insole for people who require light support. Again, they will fit most footwear and they can be used to help with common foot pain, arch pain, heel pain & plantar fasciitis.

Superfeet Black Insoles

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Sorbothane Insoles

These are general purpose shock absorbing insoles and they come in three varieties which are, single strike, double strike and full strike. They are for use in all types of walking shoes and hiking boots

Single Strike

These are High performance insoles complete with support, foot strike protection, flexibility and cushioned comfort. Designed for activities where the heel is subject to the most impact shock, an inbuilt comfort contour and heel cup in the heel forefoot area offers a comprehensive shock absorbing solution. They rebound to their original shape after each impact for shock absorption and cushioning.

Sorbothane Single Strike Insoles

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Double Strike

These are high performance insoles complete with support, foot strike protection, flexibility and cushioned comfort. Designed for activities where both the forefoot and heel are subject to the most impact shock, an inbuilt comfort contour and heel cup in the heel forefoot area and added shock absorption in the forefoot area offers a comprehensive shock absorbing solution. They rebound to their original shape after each impact for shock absorption and cushioning.

Sorbothane Double Strike Insoles

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Full Strike

These are High performance insoles complete with support, foot strike protection, flexibility and cushioned comfort. Designed for activities where the whole foot is subject to impact shock, Full Strike offers a comprehensive shock absorbing solution. They rebound to their original shape after each impact for shock absorption and cushioning.

Sorbothane Full Strike Insoles

View on Amazon

What I Prefer

When it comes to a general insole, my personal preference is a more rigid insole option as opposed to one with more cushioning. While it can take a bit longer to get more comfortable in, the rigid insole tends to toughen up my feet. It also, apparently, encourages the feet to make more fat cells on the base of the foot, in effect creating your own shock absorption.

I am broadly cautious of too much cushioning. I always think of how running shoes that had too much cushioning, which although heavily marketed as running shoes, were eventually found out to be bad for peoples feet, and actually caused runners more issues that old fashioned flat running shoes! I used to run a lot so I experienced this first hand and I think the same logic applies in hiking boots.

However, as already stated, everyone is different and some folks may need that bit more cushioning. What works for me, will quite likely not work for you so take the time to find what meets your needs.

Conclusion

If you get a pair of good hiking boots that you otherwise really like, but you feel they could be more comfortable, investing in good insoles is certainly worth a look. Trying to find the perfect hiking boots is tough an ongoing quest for most, so if something ticks every other box but the insoles are causing you some issues, it could be worth looking into this more to see if some new insoles will do the trick.

Please remember to keep in mind that some insoles need a bit of time to break in as referenced above, so give your boots time and properly break them in.

Remember, I am adding this information here to hopefully be helpful for folks as guidance and information, but I want to stress that I am not a foot specialist. If you find you are experiencing serious problems with your hiking boots, or any shoes for that matter, you should seek appropriate professional advice.

I hope you found this article on how to choose the best insoles for hiking boots and shoes useful. If you did, please like and share. Please feel free to leave a comment below too.

How To Choose The Best Hiking Pants

Hiking Pants are another key part of your hiking kit. There are a myriad of options available and the quality that is available these days is exceptionally good. This is definitely one area where I have noticed real improvements over a relatively short period of time. The pants available today are definitely far more comfortable than their older compatriots.

The biggest difference I have noticed is in the material make-up, I personally find hiking pants construction much more comfortable these days and seemingly getting more and more so as every year goes by.

So, this is a buying guide of course so I want to add some notes on what to look for when trying to choose the best hiking pants for your needs. There are several things to think about but overall, let’s start with the good news. For an average hiker doing average day hiking, I don’t think you need to break the bank for a decent pair of hiking pants. We'll look at price in more detail further below but I though a short note on that would be good, it's nice to get started on a positive note 🙂

Where do you Hike?

Before getting into the detail of what to look for when choosing your hiking pants, the first thing you should think about, is where you go hiking. This is probably the primary determining factor in choosing hiking pants.

For example, if you’re an average weekend day hiker in temperate climates, then a relatively standard pair of hiking pants, combined with rain pants, should see you good most if not all of the year round.

If however, you hike in predominantly warm conditions, say a desert climate like in parts of California and Nevada, then you may only want a light pair of hiking pants that can convert into shorts. If you're planning to visit a jungle for some hiking in the near future, then you may have other things to consider, e.g. bugs and so on.

Without going on too much, the main point I want to get across here, is that where you hike and the climate you hike in will have a major influence on how you make the rest of the decisions in the additional sub heading areas below so get that clear in your head first.

Types of Hiking Pants

There are more or less three types of hiking pants. Lets start with a brief introduction to each kind. I won't go into too much more detail in this section, I'll do that in the further sections below.

Good Old Fashioned Pants

The first type are good fashioned pants. No different, except in function and design of course, to any other type of pants.

Convertible Hiking Pants

The second are convertible hiking pants. These are hiking pants on which the bottom legs can be removed to enable you to create a pair of shorts. The bottoms are usually removed using zips which run sideways around the leg.

Roll-up Hiking Pants

These are hiking pants that roll up into shorts or Capri pants.

Material

This is the area I have noticed really significant changes over the last decade. Broadly speaking, synthetic materials such as nylon and polyester are the main materials you will find in hiking pants.

However, a lot of modern Hiking pants available on the market today come in a very comfortable and stretchable fabric made from a combination of nylon with some spandex or elastane.

I have really noticed how much more comfortable hiking pants that employ this type of make-up are than what was available even a few years back. I put it that all down to the material combination changes.

What I’ve also noticed is that this kind of material make-up can really lend itself to some of the other key items that you want to have your hiking pants to have namely breathability and water resistance. This of course varies depending on the type of pants and their specific function. That is a light summer hiking pant will of course be a lighter construction and fabric weave than a heavier winter pant.

A heavier pant will also have a thicker and tougher fabric weave and likely some extra water resistance capabilities on the face of the fabric, more about that below.

Weight

Weight is a factor that will have more, no pun intended, more weight in the buying choice for some than others. What I mean by that is that a day hiker may be much happier to carry a bit of extra weight in their hiking pants that a thru hiker or a backpacker heading out for a week or longer would.

As a general rule, the more suited to hot weather your hiking pants are, like a summer hiking pant option, the lighter they will be. It stands to reason that generally the material in summer will be less thick than a pair of hiking pants you would need to wear in winter when it's usually colder.

Now, I hesitate a little in saying that as even in areas with hot weather the temperature can plummet when night time rolls around. A desert is a good example of this. Really hot during the day, but much cooler, sometimes very cold, at night. Similarly, in certain places in Winter on a sunny day, it can be very chilly in the shade but hot when in direct line of the sun.

For an average day hiker, weight shouldn't be a major concern and you can pick what feels comfortable to you. For a backpacker, it definitely becomes more of a factor you need to take into consideration as you will probably want as light and efficient an option as possible.

Sizing

Everyone will of course have their own preference for sizing. First and foremost you want your hiking pants to feel comfortable of course. I think good mobility in them is very important so a certain amount of bagginess is a good thing. However, you don't want to go overkill on this either.

You want good mobility in the crotch and knee areas for sure,. When you hike over varying terrain you will be moving those areas the most and into the widest variety of positions so you want a bit of freedom in movement for sure. Some pants will specifically have things like articulated knees and gusseted crotches so they can be good to look out for too as they will offer more mobility with added resistance to abrasion.

As a general rule, Summer hiking pants are usually that bit baggier than Winter ones. This makes some sense as you want more ventilation in hotter temperatures. I always like some element of bagginess in my hiking pants. However, I have found that some more modern hiking pants, using the spandex combination mentioned above, can be quite snug in terms of fit but still be very flexible in terms of movement.

Overall, and this may be somewhat stating the obvious but, in terms of sizing aim for what feels comfortable to wear and pay a pit of extra attention to the knee and crotch areas. A little bagginess can be good for hotter times of year but don't go too crazy as too much and it will be a pain e.g. flapping in heavy winds.

Breathability

As with any hiking, you want your pants to be breathable. This is a lot to do with the material make-up from the last section. Your hiking pants need some breathability to ensure you can let your legs breathe i.e. sweat can wick away from your skin. While that is important, it is only part of the process and I think additional features like ventilation zips for quick ventilation are a great thing to have but we’ll look at that in more detail below.

Good breathability also lends itself to helping your hiking pants to dry out quicker if they get wet. I can’t overstate how important that is. Your hiking pants are going to get wet so the quicker they can dry off the better.

Water Resistance / Waterproof

I’m a little cautious of hiking pants that are categorized as waterproof. In terms of hiking, waterproof capability should generally be handled utilizing your rain pants in my opinion.

However, some element of water resistance on a thicker pair of hiking pants, for autumn / winter, can be a good thing to have. It just means that for a lighter shower of rain, you don’t need to get your rain gear out and on. This will be provided by a DWR (Durable water repellent) coating of some kind. This sits on top of the material and beads the water letting it roll off.

The DWR coating won't last forever though, so you do need to reproof the coating on your hiking pants using Nikwax or a similar reproofing product if you want to keep the water resistance working well.

For summer hiking, I don’t concern myself too much with water resistance in hiking pants. If the pants have good breathability and they get a bit wet they normally dry off pretty quickly in the warmer temperatures of summer. If the rain is too heavy, I just pop the rain pants on over my hiking pants till it passes.

As I mentioned, for serious rain, I always prefer to rely on waterproof rain pants as an outer layer over my hiking pants but this may not always be as comfortable in certain scenarios, say in very muggy conditions. You'll need to see what set-up works best for your needs based on where you do your hiking.

UPF

Some summer hiking pants will have an extra UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) capability in the material make-up of them. Before getting into this, I think it's worth covering the difference between UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) and SPF (Sun Protection Factor) so as not to get confused.

An SPF rating is a rating that indicates how fast skin will burn. So the SPF ratio of 20 means that 1/2oth of the burning radiation will reach the skin. So, if you use sunscreen with a factor of 20, it will take 20 minutes for an equivalent of 1 minute of burning radiation to get through to your skin if you were not using sunscreen. It's only a guide though so if you're hiking in the heat using sunscreen, it's always better to top up on it regularly.

UPF on the other hand is a clothing rating that works by indicating the number of units of ultraviolet light an item of clothing let's in through the fabric. It's a ratio that works as follows. If a clothing item has a UPF of 40, it means that if 40 units of UV fall on the fabric, only 1 unit will pass through to the skin. In summary, when we're talking about hiking gear, we are only concerned with UPF, the rating for clothes.

It's worth noting here that standard clothing alone will provide some element of protection from the sun. If you're wearing your normal clothes out in sunny conditions, it is rare that you will actually get sunburn through them.

However, the sun is something you need to be very conscious of when out on the trail as on a good day, you’re totally exposed. Often times you are often that bit closer to the sun as well, as you’re generally higher up in terms of altitude. The temperature can also be a little cooler in that scenario which can be a little deceiving as to the amount of UV you’re actually getting exposed to is much higher than it may feel to your body.

Similarly, if you live closer to the equator, the sun can be a lot stronger and you may burn a lot easier. Some folks also have skin that is more prone to burning than others, so this may be more of a red flag for some than others e.g. people with fair skin.

Overall, having a UPF rating is something to consider as part of your hiking pants buying decision should you hike in sunnier and hotter climes. Personally, I think there is no harm in having some UPF capability in a light summer hiking pant if you hike in a lot of hot sunshine or in certain locations or environments e.g. deserts.

Color

Color is important,. Hiking pants come in a range of colors but again thinking in terms of heat, dark colors absorb heat and light colors reflect heat. So, this is why nearly all light summer hiking pants will be grey, beige, cream, etc. A much better color to have in hot temperatures.

Similarly, if you're hiking in winter, a darker pair of hiking pants can help to absorb heat from the sun and help keep you warmer. It may sound a bit like overkill but it does have an impact. Again, for someone who is out for longer times, say trekkers and backpackers, this is something to really give more consideration too as the wardrobe you can carry on your back will be limited 🙂

Bug Resistance

Again, something to consider for many, bug resistance in hour hiking pants will help keep bugs at bay. This can be a real problem in many places and so anything that may help with this may be worth considering.

If you’re planning on heading away on a hiking adventure, say to the Amazon or somewhere, that’s when capabilities like this may be much more important to help protect you from getting bitten by various bugs and whatnot. In saying that though, mosquitoes, ticks, ants, flies, chiggers and midges are never too far away in most parts of the world.

I think most places at a certain time of year in their cycle will have some kind of explosion in bugs / mosquitoes, etc. Therefore, insect shield technology can be worth considering for sure.

Pockets

Good pockets are a must on hiking pants in my opinion. I like deep ones, at least the standard two hand pockets should be deep. Hand pockets can sometimes be zipped, and usually zipped pockets in hiking pants will have a bit more water resistance. You can see as an example below, that my Columbia summer hiking pants have a lot of pockets available.

That's just one side view shot in the photo above and it has four available pockets: one standard hand pocket, a zipped back pocket, a hidden secure pocket and the side pocket. The other side has 3, less the hidden pocket, and the back pocket uses a Velcro closure. Point being, there is plenty of available pocket space. Really handy to have.

As in the Columbia hiking pants above, some hiking pants will come with a small zipped inner, almost hidden, secure pocket, usually just on the entry to the right hand pocket of the pants. This can be used to store something you really don’t want to lose e.g. a car key. The space is usually quite small in the pocket though but it's a neat thing to have.

Hip pockets can also feature on hiking pants, one or two can be handy to have, but not always practical. They usually can be closed with buttons, Velcro or zips. Rear back pockets are also common on hiking pants, not a major concern of mine as I don't use the rear pockets a lot, but again no harm to have.

Features

For summer hiking pants, I look for removable bottoms. This means you can easily turn your hiking pants into shorts. I have a pair of Columbia light hiking pants that do this and it works very well.

Zip Conversion of Hiking Pants Into Shorts

There are two zips around the pants at just above the knee level and the lower part of the pants easily zip off. Really handy for when you’re not sure if the sun will make an appearance on the day or not. While shorts in the sun is a good idea, be careful as if it's too hot you might be wiser to leave them on to protect your legs from the sun.

Another handy thing about the removable bottoms is that they can be removed and washed really easily. When you're hiking, the bottom of the pants will get the worst hit in terms of dirt. If you can't wash them for a few days while you hike, you can simply detach the bottoms and rinse them in a river or a sink, whatever is handy. I did this when I hiked the Camino and it worked a treat and kept me looking somewhat respectable after numerous days hiking lol 🙂

A similar effect, making your pants into shorts, can also be achieved using roll-up hiking pants. The bottoms on these can be rolled up to form shorts or Capri pants. In truth, you can roll up most standard hiking pants just fine but these ones will have a tie feature available so you can secure them when rolled up. Not something I've used personally but might be good to have if you find the process of removing zipped bottoms a hassle as you have to take your boots off.

In more durable hiking pants, a key feature I really like to have are ventilation zips. These work in the same format as pit zips in a rain jacket.

They run along the side of the hip and usually have a mesh material under them which allows good air flow when you open them.

They’re a very effective way to quickly regulate the temperature in your hiking pants and I really like them. Breathable material is one thing but the quick venting option is the business in my opinion. You can open them as you ascend a steep part of a mountain when you’re sweating that bit more with the extra exertion. Then when you get to a plateau or start heading downward, you can just zip them back up if it starts to get too cool.

In terms of zips, boot zips are also a popular feature to look out for. These are zips that run from the bottom of your hiking pants up to, approximately, the top of your ankle. When open, they can help with sliding boots on and off and they can also allow some element of ventilation.

Hiking pants will also often feature some way to secure at the waist. This will either be with belt loops to which you use your belt of choice but many hiking pants will come with an integrated Belt or drawstring of some kind.

Some kind of belt, integrated or otherwsie, are useful as they allow an element of weight moderation, when you fill up the many pockets available to you with stuff, you need something to help keep the pants comfortably up and secure.

Price

In terms of getting a very functional and comfortable pair of hiking pants for the trail, I really don’t feel you need to break the bank. You can of course spend a lot of money on hiking pants, as with all hiking gear there is a lower and upper range running from about €50.00 to €100.00. However, I think spending in and around $80.00 (maybe a bit less if you take advantage of a sale or some coupons online) will get you a really functional brand name pair of hiking pants.

The more functionality you have in your pants, generally the more expensive they will be. What I mean by that is, all else being equal, a light pair of hiking pants should be a bit cheaper than a tougher and more durable Winter pair.

Keep in mind that brand name can have a big impact on price too. I do generally like particular brands over others, as most people do, but sometimes you won’t get much more in functionality and capability for the extra dollars you will pay for a name.

My Recommendation

I recommend having at least two sets of hiking pants, a summer pair that are lighter and have some specific functions, which I list below, as well as a winter pair which are of course that bit heavier to keep you warmer in colder climates.

The summer hiking pants should be convertible into shorts. I prefer the capability to remove the bottoms using zips as opposed to roll-ups but whatever you prefer should be fine and will have the same effect.

For the autumn / winter hiking pants, I recommend a tougher material construction for the hiking pants, they need to be considerably warmer but still breathable. I like a mix of synthetic fiber like nylon / polyester with some spandex or elastane into the mix to allow a bit more stretch in the fabric. I recommend you look for ventilation zips in your winter pants as I think they are really effective in helping regulate temperature.

Breathability is also very important for both your summer and winter hiking pants. As mentioned above, generally speaking, the more breathable, the quicker the pants can dry and that is a definite requirement for hiking pants.

Look for at least two hand pockets in each pair and a couple of back pockets, can also be useful. A zipped pocket or two can also be good to secure something away.

If you'd class yourself as a casual hiker, I think it is feasible to get away with one year round pair of hiking pants, for that I'd choose a middle of the road hiking pant, not too light for winter but not too heavy for summer, ideally with removable bottoms so you can turn the hiking pants into shorts. That combined with good waterproof rain pants should keep you covered in most conditions.

Conclusion

Hiking pants are a key part of your hiking gear, there is no doubt about that. The good news is that the quality available these days I think is really top notch at a price that is affordable. You can check out my hiking pant recommendations here to help you get some more ideas on what's available.

As mentioned above, hiking pants are one area I’ve really noticed a big change in quality in over the last decade and they seem to be getting better and better. As with all hiking gear, it will be interesting to see how technology advancements help further enhance the quality and capability of hiking pants over the coming years. It should only be good I think.

I hope you found this article on how to choose the best hiking pants useful. Please share, like and comment 🙂

How To Buy A Headlamp For The Trail

As a regular hiker, it’s inevitable that at some point you’ll end up out hiking at night. While hiking at night is another really beautiful way to enjoy the mountains, it may not be everyone’s cup of tea. Believe it or not, you can get some spectacular views when all the stars align, as they say.

However, more often that not, your visibility is of course not going to be that great and so the views not always that spectacular. It is night after all 🙂

However, aside from intentionally going out night hiking, there is a strong possibility that a time will come when you’re out in the mountains at night but not by choice. On a summit for example on a hike in Winter where things may not go according to plan.

Picture this …

How Easy could this Happen?

You’re on a Winter day hike, setting out at 10am and you reach your destination around 1pm. It’s lunch time so you stop to have a bite to eat before making your way back to base. Night falls at 5pm so you’ve got plenty of time, 3 hours there, 3 hours back with 1 hour, minus the time you stop for lunch, to spare. All good!

However, as you enjoy your lunch and take a hot drink in, the clouds start to close in quickly and the weather takes a turn for the worst. You know you’ve 4 hours maximum to get back before it gets dark so you decide to cut your lunch short and set out on your return journey.

Visibility is getting worse by the second, it starts to pour with rain and the wind starts to go up a few gears. You check your route plan and start to follow a bearing you took when you planned your hike last night.

Unbeknownst to you though, your compass has taken a knock in your pack and is now broken and pointing you in the wrong direction by 10 degrees. Unaware of this you push on. That seemingly small margin or error means you’re now going further into the mountains in the wrong direction as opposed to back to your car.

The visibility is getting worse, so it’s a while before you figure out that something is up. You notice the land under your feet should be sloping steeply down by now for the route you should be travelling, but it is in fact going upwards.

At this point, an hour has passed before you’ve realized your error. With no visibility and not knowing your exact location, you have no choice but to spend another hour trying to get back to where you were to first confirm your position. Your compass isn’t working and unfortunately no one else in your hiking party brought a compass along and you didn’t pack a spare.

The Long Journey Back

You manage to get back to the place you first made your error, that means you’ve just added at least 2 hours to the journey to get back to your car. You are now faced with the problem of getting back to your car from there, again with a damaged compass in zero visibility. It will be slow going and it will take a lot of your mental resources to get out of that one. Let’s say that adds at least another 2 more hours to your trip back to your car.

So, now your initial 3 hour trip back to your car will now take at least another 5 hours, 2 hours for the mistake and 5 hours back to your car. You’re now looking at 7 hours return journey in total, assuming you go the right way too of course. The earliest you can hope to get back at is 8pm!

The Importance of Having a Headlamp

In terms of hiking, the story above may seem like a very drawn out way to state what may seem obvious to some, however it may not be so obvious to others.

In the scenario above, which could happen to anyone, whether you wanted to or not you’re going to be hiking at night. A lot of the time, especially in Late Autumn, Winter and early Spring, carrying a headlamp is a very smart thing to do, even when you only plan to go out for a day hike. Should you get stuck in the mountains late in the evening, you will at least have some artificial light to help you see your way safely back.

Another great advantage to having a headlamp is that you can use it hands free so while you’re trying to figure a route out on your map or sort out whatever problem you may be confronted with, you don’t have to hold a torch in one of your hands.

Also, should be unable to walk, it can really help a rescue team find you at night. An emergency whistle is another critical piece of kit but if the wind is drowning the sound of that out, a flashing headlamp in the distance, assuming visibility is reasonable, is a really easy way to pin point your position.

Aide from these advantages in terms of hiking, if you enjoy any outdoor activity at night, a headlamp will come in handy. For example, if you like camping, a headlamp is a lot more handy to use than a handheld torch. While you’re rummaging about looking for your stuff, it’s a really easy way to have good light to see what you’re doing.

In summary, a good headlamp is a really important piece of your hiking kit. It’s not only practical and functional, but it can play a significant role in helping to keep you safe on the trail, and can potentially even be a life saver.

What is a Headlamp?

OK, so let’s start from the start. For those who don’t know what a headlamp is, it’s pretty much a lamp that attaches to your head. It usually comes in a strap that can be adjusted to fit your head size. The lamp itself pivots at the front as shown in the picture below.

All headlamps are operated by a button or two on the lamp itself, see the black button on the center of the lamp in the picture above. the lamp above is my current headlamp, the Black Diamond Storm.

Headlamps are designed with all manner of outdoor activities in mind. From cycling, to hiking, to camping, they can be utilized for lot’s of different outdoor activities. The one above is a typical one you would use on the trail for hiking purposes.

What Should you look for?

Headlamps are broadly rated using three key measurements / indicators.

These items are usually listed on the side of the box on any good headlamp like in the picture below.

While these measurement ratings are important and fundamental things that you need your headlamp to have decent capability in, don’t take them too seriously. There are so many factors at play, it can be hard to say how useful the indicated ratings really are.

For example, Light capability and Burn Time will simply fade with use but some lamps do of course fade quicker than others. However, these 3 key performance indicators do provide a general performance expectation guide.

On top of that though, there are other essential components and things you should consider when thinking about buying a headlamp so let’s look at those next.

Durability and Construction

You will most likely be carrying your headlamp in your pack and so it will be getting shaken about and possibly even banged into things every now and then, if your pack bumps a tree or some rocks for example.

This is where a tough and good design is critical. If your headlamp is built in a flimsy way, it won’t be able to take a knock or two. You need something that is designed and constructed with tough outdoor use in mind. We are of course primarily interested in hiking, so most of these are small 3*1*1 inch devices that sit on your head.

It’s worth noting, that you can get much bigger and more powerful headlamps for other specific outdoor activities. I happened to use a cycling headlamp, at least that’s what I was told it was for, one night for a night navigation exercise I was doing once.

I didn’t have my normal headlamp for some reason and the outdoor center lent this to me for the night. Anyway, this thing was HUGE! It was big and chunky and sat heavy on my forehead. Not good in terms of size, weight or packability for hiking, but man could this bad boy light up the place lol 🙂 you could have landed a plane with it, it was that powerful!

As mentioned, I think it was a headlamp specifically used for cyclists who are moving fast and need good visibility from much further away. Excellent light but not really practical for hiking.

Waterproof

If you’re wearing your headlamp on the mountains, at some point it will take a battering from the elements. So as well as being durable it needs to be able to withstand the elements and be able to continue to work fine in very wet conditions.

Again, the physical make-up and design will have a lot to do with this. Keep this in mind when you’re shopping around for one.

Ease of Use

I think this is really important. Most headlamps will come with some form of pivot on them, as in the picture above. that is the lamp itself can be pivoted to point in several different directions. For example, straight ahead or pointing down.

Useful depending on what you want to do. For example, you can aim a flood light function straight ahead to survey a broader area in closer proximity or target a specific feature further in the distance with a spot light.

As well as that, ideally you want something that is easy to operate with gloves on. If the headlamp is too fiddly, you may need to take gloves off to work with it which isn’t ideal in cold and wet conditions. Most headlamps will have several settings options in them e.g. to make the beam stronger, to use a strobe feature, etc.

Ideally these functions can be easily accessed and utilized without having to do anything too complicated in terms of fiddling with buttons and so on.

Functions

There are a lot of functions that can be available in a headlamp. Normally, in terms of hiking, there will be a:

Floodlight:

This is the main beam that is most employed on the trail at night, certainly the one I use the most anyway. It’s effectively the main beam and will light up a broad area in a closer proximity.

Excellent for a campsite or taking a look in your immediate area for some land features, that type of thing.

Spotlight:

Some headlamps will have a spot feature. this enables the user to focus all the power into one much smaller but more targeted beam. Say you want to focus on something off in the distance for example.

This can be very useful for night navigation as if you’re looking for a specific feature in the distance, you can focus in on it. Very useful when trying to confirm your position using specific land features.

Red Night Light:

Most headlamps will have a red (or green) night light setting. The main purpose for this is that it can be a little less heavy on juice and apparently, red light can be seen easier at a distance than white light. So, if you’re in a rescue situation, it will preserve battery life and help identify your location easier.

I also read somewhere that the red light setting doesn’t spook animals and so will not draw their attention to your position. Possibly useful for hunters but also if you don’t want to freak a herd of animals out as you walk by them.

This function isn’t something I have ever used to be honest. Thankfully I haven’t been in a rescue situation before and hopefully I never will.

Price

Price is a lot of the time directly correlated to quality when it comes to hiking gear, and I have definitely found that to be the case with headlamps.

I have in the past bought a cheap headlamp but the performance was rubbish and rather than saving a few bucks, I felt I wasted the purchase price. Frankly, it was dangerous trying to hike in the dark with it.

I only did this once though. From that point I decided I’d get a good quality headlamp and spend a bit more on it to ensure I had good quality. The price range of a headlamp for the trail will be anywhere from $15.00 at the cheaper end of the scale to $200.00 at the higher end.

I think you can get a good headlamp for in and around $40.00 to $60.00 so you don’t have to break the bank. As a warning though, headlamps are one of those hiking gadget areas where you can get really expensive lamps that are terrible performers and very reasonably priced ones that are a top performers. Go figure!

It’s worth doing your research well and as it’s an electronic product, it’s good to shop for one online as you will get better deals with sales, coupons and so on.

What I Recommend

I think for the trail you need to of course take all the factors listed above into consideration. However, I specifically recommend the items below

As mentioned above, starting with the 3 key standard rating indicators, as a guide, when it comes to:
- Light: aim for a range of between 100 to 200 lumens and a light lock feature is a good idea so it isn ‘t turned on accidentally in your pack
- Burntime: aim for an upper limit of 50+ hours and ideally a meter gauge to display the power left
- Distance: aim for an upwards range of 70+ meters
Ensure the headlamp is on a movable / inclining pivot that is practical and functional. This gives you a range of areas in which to fix point the headlamp e.g. you can incline the light to point it down towards the ground or out in front of you and so on.
Look for an adjustable head strap that works well so you can find a comfortable fit. This means other folks can use it too should they need to, just need to adjust it to their head size.
A variety of a beams is a good idea. I like to have a:
- Good main flood beam
- Functional spot light
- Night light option (red or green usually)
- Some flashing or strobe capability (can be very useful in an emergency)
You don’t have to break the bank but I think you should be willing to spend at least $40.00+
While it gives no guarantee, choosing an established brand name with lots of good user reviews is sensible and a good brand will stand over their kit should something not work or fail.

What I am Currently Using

I am currently using the Black Diamond Storm Headlamp and I have been very happy with it. It’s got a tough and sturdy build with a nice design, and it’s a cinch to operate all the light settings on it from one main button on the top of the headlamp. It’s also easy to operate with gloves on which is awesome.

It also has a simple to use lock feature and a power gauge to indicate how much juice is left in it which works well, but if I have one criticism of it, it is that it is hard enough on batteries and can burn through them quite quickly.

Conclusion

Choosing a headlamp for the trail is surprisingly detailed. There are a fair few things to consider for sure. There are also so many different headlamp options available, it can be hard to know where to start. I hope this buying guide has went some way in helping to make the whole process that bit simpler and helps you in the process of buying a headlamp for the trail.

Always establish your needs before you buy and even if you’ve no interest in night hiking, think of it in terms of emergency use if a situation, as I started out this guide with, should arise.

In that scenario, an emergency when you need it most, you will really want it to be functional and working well. You will be grateful you spent a bit of time, taking the time to choose a good headlamp and parted with those few extra bucks to get a good one.

As a final note, always carry spare batteries with you and should you be heading into the wilds for a longer trek, it can be a really good idea to bring a spare headlamp with you. Yes, I mean a complete replacement should the other one fail. Better to be safe and all that.

If you liked this guide and found it useful, please like and share it 🙂

What Are The Best Hiking Gloves?

Today I wanted to take a look at a gear item I haven’t touched on across the site too much as yet. That is hiking gloves and specifically, what are the best hiking gloves to use.

Gloves are of course a really important part of your complete day hiking kit . Your hands are one of your extremities that are usually exposed to the outer environment so they are on the front line, so to speak, in terms of dealing with the elements.

There are many different types of hiking gloves available and there is the usual mind boggling brand choice available. They run from everything from a light polyester type glove, to a full on ski glove. Different gloves will have different functionality of course. You can get gloves that have specific features like waterproofing, or touchscreen friendly, (so you can still operate a smartphone screen with them on).

What to Consider when Buying Hiking Gloves

First off, as with any piece of hiking kit, you need to think about where you will be predominantly doing your hiking. That will determine what specific functionality you need to consider. If you hike only in sunny climes all year round, gloves may not actually be high on your requirements list 🙂

Hand Size

Kind of stating the obvious but if you don’t know what size of gloves you normally wear, you need to find out. This can be easily done in any store and standard gloves will give you a reasonable idea of what size you should run with. From my experience, the sizes usually run in Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large, that kind of thing. So it isn’t complicated or at least it shouldn’t be in most cases.

Waterproof

So, do you need your gloves to be waterproof (or as waterproof as anything can realistically be)? There are different options available and some gloves do perform better than others in this area. However, keep in mind that I don’t really believe that any hiking gear clothes item is really 100% waterproof.

Breathability

I’ve written about breathability on the site before. You’re on the move on the trail so you will sweat and so, in tandem with being waterproof to some degree, your gloves having some wicking capability is a good idea. Air needs to be able to circulate in some form in most cases.

Insulation

How much insulation do you need? If your gloves get wet will they still retain warmth? Things worth considering. Normally, synthetic material is better at retaining heat when wet than natural fibers like wool. My main hiking gloves, which are predominantly polyester and neoprene, are fine when wet, as long as I am moving they keep heat great.

Warmth

Tying in with Insulation, will you be hiking in the depths of winter in really cold conditions? How much mobility are you happy to sacrifice to get more warmth? Logically ski gloves will be warmer than a driving glove style fit. I accommodate this with multiple pairs of gloves which I explain further below.

Mobility

Would you like good mobility e.g. still able to work a compass while you have them on? Some gloves will be more restrictive than others so if this is a big one for you, take it into account. For me, I can usually take a glove off if I need to for some dexterity but my main gloves aren’t actually bad for general hand movement, using a compass and so on.

What I Recommend

As always, I want to try and give you my approach to what I do for this. In my opinion, there is a catch all approach which I use that I think should cover most average day hikers year round in most hiking conditions (I always say that as if you’re going into extreme conditions e.g. sub-zero temperatures in the Arctic, you will need specialist kit but that doesn’t fall into my category definition of average day hiking).

I have 3 pairs of hiking gloves and I use a combination of them all year round. My gloves are old, so I can’t give you exact specifics on the models of gloves I use. However, the gloves I outline below hit the mark in terms of functionality, align to what I use and also have excellent user reviews.

My Primary Pair of Hiking Gloves – Year Round Use

The first pair is my main stay pair of gloves. They are a pair of gloves I can use in pretty much all conditions. The Freetoo Tactical Gloves, pictured below, are an excellent option that can be used on the trail, on their own most of the year round.

These gloves are military grade gloves, and so are designed to be very functional with minimal limitation. The design is such that you maintain good dexterity for your fingers, while wearing them. Although they fit snugly, they also offer a lot of protection to your hands, being very abrasion resistant. They are also designed to be breathable and odor free, so you can get as much out of them in warm as well as colder weather.

Overall, they are a rugged pair of gloves that are versatile enough to be utilized in a variety of outdoor activities, not just hiking. the only downside, they’re not touch screen compatible. Not the end of the world, but it would be a nice to have, but for in and around $20.00, you can’t go too far wrong!

My Secondary Pair of Hiking Gloves – Spring to Autumn Use

I have a pair of old liner gloves that I use in cooler temperatures in warmer climes. Pictured below are a similar pair of gloves to what I use, the Smartwool Liner gloves. They double up as a glove liner so you can use them in tandem with another pair of hefty gloves if you needed to e.g. thick mittens, gloves. That would only be required in seriously cold conditions though, not average day hiking.I normally use this pair as my spare pair from mid Spring to Mid Autumn (when it’s not really cold). They also come in handy if someone is short a pair of gloves or, heaven forbid, I lost my primary pair. Again, they come in and around the $20.00 mark, so very accessible in terms or price.

My Secondary Pair of Hiking Gloves – Winter Use

My third pair is basically a pair of ski gloves. In really cold temperatures, I work with the Primary Pair and my Secondary Pair for winter use. Pictured below are the ‘eWing Mens Winter Snow, Ski, Snowboard, Cold Weather Gloves‘. As with the last two pairs, these are not my actual ski gloves. They are however an economical buy at $10.99 with decent reviews which matches what I do use … I will explain that in more detail in the Price section below.

If it’s too cold and I need to heat my hands fast, I pop my ski gloves on (warm mittens also work well). I generally find that after a while, when my hands have warmed up, I can comfortably return to my Sealskinz, my hands normally actually get too hot in the ski gloves if I wear them too long while hiking.

I’ve never had the need to double up gloves with the ski gloves, they are more than warm enough on their own. However, if that was required, the liner gloves would be the best accompanying partner to the ski gloves. So, overall, I think I have every base pretty much covered.

Price

You can spend a wide variation on gloves. From 20 dollars for a reasonable Spring pair to 80 dollars for a very hi-tech waterproof, make your breakfast in the morning for you, pair 🙂 . I say that only half-jokingly as, from my personal experience, gloves to some degree are one of those areas that you can get away with using a non-fancy pants brand name.

How so? Well, when it comes to my regular main pair of gloves, like the Freetoo gloves above, I wouldn’t compromise. I wanted to spend a bit of extra money to get a good pair as they are my main pair of gloves used year round when I am out hiking, so I did invest in a pricey brand name pair. However, as you can see with the gloves listed here, you really don’t need to spend a lot unless you want to. The liner glove ones aren’t I use, brand name also, aren’t overly expensive either and a non-brand pair would probably work fine for what they are used for.

As alluded too in the winter glove section above, the pair I use that are definitely not anything special are my ski gloves. I bought them in a standard department store before going skiing two years back. As with the eWing sample I have given above, They were cheap as chips but man do they work a treat! Ski Gloves can of course be really expensive but I’m not really a skier. A basic pair of ski gloves is more than enough for my basic hiking needs in the mountains in winter. They keep my hands nice and toasty in very cold conditions.

Conclusion

So, I hope you found this post on what are the best hiking gloves informative and useful. As you can see, there isn’t one absolute or ‘best’ pair I use although I do have my main pair as such. To summarize, I always have two pairs of gloves in my day pack. In winter, I have my primary pair, like the Freeto gloves above, and my ski gloves, and I alternate between the two utilizing the ski gloves when serious warmth is needed. Most days, even in winter, my primary pair are enough. The rest of the year, my primary pair of gloves are my main stay gloves and I have my old liner gloves mainly as a back-up pair.

This approach works well for me so if you’re thinking about getting hiking gloves, I recommend you give it a try. As a final note, hiking gloves are one of the things I always have a spare pair off in my day pack, I’ve been caught out once or twice and was very grateful to have a spare set in my pack. If you’ve any questions or are unsure about anything I list here, please feel free to leave a comment or drop me a note. I’ll be happy to help if I can.

We hope to get some more detailed reviews of some of the best gloves available soon, and we’ll link to them from here.

As always, please like and share … you know you want to 🙂

How To Buy A Tent

Today I want to continue further into the world of camping. In some previous posts into this very broad and exciting area, we started from the ground up, so to speak, and looked at what you need to have for a good camping sleep system.

Photo Credit: Bureau of Land Management Oregon

Prior to that we had deep dived further into the elements of your sleep system by reviewing how to choose a sleeping bag and some accessories you can utilize to have to enable you to have a good night’s sleep in the Great Outdoors, namely a camping roll mat (foam or air mattress) and a sleeping bag liner.

With those things in mind I wanted to continue moving upward and outward, as such, as we look at the next key element of your camping kit. A great sleep system isn’t much use to you unless you have a decent roof over your head so today I want to look at your tent. A brief look at what they are and how best to go about choosing one.

What is a Tent?

OK, yes, that is a dumb question 🙂 everyone knows what a tent is, surely? Well, yes I would certainly think that most people do know what a tent is. However it’s worth writing a couple of short lines on it just for completeness.

A tent is a portable shelter. It is made from fabric and cloth and is supported by a combination of poles, cords and pegs to keep it upright. A tent has an outer layer which is waterproof and an inner flysheet section. That’s basically it.

Types of Tent

There are basically two main Types of tent 1. The Cabin Tent and 2. The Dome Tent.

A Cabin Tent, pictured below, will have normally have more space than a dome tent as it is usually bigger than a dome tent as they have, more or less, vertical walls.

A dome tent, pictured below, is usually the smaller option of the two with curved walls and less space than a cabin tent but has an advantage in being very quick and easy to assemble.

Both the Cabin and Dome tents have their place and each can be the better option depending on what your needs are. In addition to tents you, it’s worth noting that you have the option to go with a more basic shelter.

Other Types of Shelter

We have already looked at the two main tents above but as this site is all about hiking, it’s worth adding in a note on some other notable shelter options than can be used on the trail in place of a tent.

First up, we have a bivi Bag. To me, typically a bivi bag refers to an emergency blanket which is used as an emergency shelter / protection if you or someone else gets hurt and needs to stay protected till help arrives.

However, you can get more elaborate variations of them which are designed to be used as a lightweight and basic shelter / tent (kind of) for an avid backpacker. They have the advantage of being lightweight and easy to pack and carry.

Next up, shelters and tarps are a really lightweight option which can be employed on the trail. Now, you need to be sure the conditions are right if you’re going to use one of these as your main protection from the elements but they are a viable option and super lightweight to carry.

As with the bivi bag tent above, the shelter is more for what I would term an ultra hiker. someone who needs to move very fast and light

What to Look for When Choosing a Tent?

OK, so now we get into the meaty stuff 🙂 There are a lot of things you need to consider when starting out on the purchase process of picking a tent. I’ll list out each one in the order that I approach it and based on that you can then decide on whether a cabin or dome tent is your best option.

What Kind of Camping Trip are You Going on?

This site is of course all about hiking so logically, when it comes to tents, we would most likely be looking at smaller tents that can be carried for trekking and backpacking purposes. That more or less puts us firmly into the dome camp, no pun intended 🙂

Photo Credit: True New Zealand Adventures

However, this point still applies. What do you need your tent for? Are you going backpacking on a solo trip? If so, A dome will probably be the ticket. Or, are you trekking with a larger group and need to set up a base-camp kind of deal? If you can drive to it, a larger cabin tent may be the better option.

You get the idea, confirm what you need your tent for. I know it sounds like stating the obvious but that will also have an impact on our next point.

Where and when are you Planning to Camp?

Similar to knowing the type of camping trip you’re going on, you obviously need to be very clear on where you plan to do most of your camping. Will you be camping in temperate zones in North America? Do you plan to go camping in mid-winter in much harsher conditions? Depending on where you are camping, the climate and time of year will play a big part in your choice.

Photo Credit: Zach Dischner

As with when you choose sleeping bags, tents are rated along the lines of seasons. Below is a brief summary of the main ratings:

3 Season Tent

As per the name, this tent is suitable for 3 season use, meaning from mid Spring to early Fall in temperate conditions. A 3 season tent will protect you from a downpour but it is not designed to take on heavy storms.

These tents are used to protect you from bugs, via the flysheet, protect you from a downpour or two and of course, provide you with some privacy.

3+ Season Tents

These tents are really an extension of the 3 season tent. That is, their usage would extend out to early Spring and late Fall in cooler temperatures. They do this by having less air ventilation and so are a bit warmer than a 3 season tent. They also have more support in the form of poles to ensure a sturdier structure if tougher weather is encountered e.g. heavy blasts of wind.

Photo Credit: Kitty Terwolbeck

As well as these tents being for people who want to camp at these times of year, they may be a better option if you are planning to camp at a high elevation in Summer. The higher up, the colder it gets so you may well need more protection that a standard 3 season can give you.

4 Season Tents

OK, so now you’re moving into tough territory with a 4 season tent. As the name implies, it is good to use all year round including the depths of winter or at very high elevations where it’s really cold. Therefore its makeup and build has to be tough enough and strong enough to withstand heavy snowfall and much heavier winds.

Photo Credit: Kitty Terwolbeck

A 4 Season tent will always be a domed tent as that design withstands the weather much better than a cabin style. If you’re in conditions where you need to utilize a 4 season tent, the practicalities of survival of course take priority, so things like luxurious space options are just not practical.

While a 4 season tent is technically usable in summer, in reality it isn’t really practical. At lower altitudes in any kind of summer temperatures, you’ll cook in one of these and it will be stuffy inside. Not a pleasant environment to try and sleep in. These bad boys are for tough conditions not a summer stroll in the hills.

Where you will be camping coupled with the time of year should have a large bearing on confirming this part of the decision process but, unless you’re planning going very high above the treeline or heading out into hard Winter conditions, broadly speaking a 3 or 3+ season tent should meet most people’s needs.

How much Space do you need?

As with the example listed out above, if you’re going on a solo backpacking / hiking trip, carrying a tent for two people obviously isn’t necessary and will only add extra weight to your pack.

If however you are setting up a camp at a spot you can drive to and then take day hikes from, you have the option to have a much larger tent either for space for yourself or for more people.

Added into the mix of the points we’ve already covered, you need to get clear on how many people will be camping. In terms of space, tents are listed based on how many people can fit into it. So they are ‘one person’, ‘two person’, ‘three person’ etc. Person is also sometimes interchanged with the word ‘man’ i.e. ‘one man tent’ etc.

Yes, it does sound pretty simple to understand but it can be a little misleading. There are no specific standards per se as everyone is different. The same two man tent to sleep two average sized women vs. two large men will probably be much more comfortable for the two women in terms of space.

Photo Credit: Jon Hurd

Even if you’re a one man show you may still need extra room in your tent e.g. say you brought your dog along with you for the trip or maybe you’re claustrophobic and need a bit more space. You get the idea, everyone’s spacing needs can be very different for a whole host of reasons.

Overall, I have found the ‘<number> person’ system to work pretty good, which means it was easy enough for me to zone in on my available options when purchasing.

However, if there are more people or extra requirements you need to take all that into account. If you’re still not sure, you can always check out a video on the tent you are thinking of getting to see if you can get some perspective on it’s size from that. Or, if you can, go to the outdoor store. Many times, the tent will be set up in the store so you can see exactly how much space is available.

As a hiker, my needs are for limited personal use and backpacking so I run with a one man tent as I carry it on my back. Being lightweight is high on my list of requirements of course so the smaller to pack and the lighter it is, all the better. I had no extra requirements in terms of extra space though.

It’s worth noting that you can also opt to carry a two or three person tent between two or three people. That can sometimes be even more efficient in terms of weight but you need to get the scales and the calculator out to work all that out but it is a reasonable option for longer backpacking trips and short camping trips that I have used once or twice.

There is an argument that you should carry your own tent and sleeping kit in case of an emergency i.e. if two people are backpacking together and one lost their pack, you still have the kit in the other persons pack to keep you both dry. It will be snug with two people in a one man tent but hey, in an emergency it’s a whole lot better than getting hypothermia 🙂

Weight

OK, so I’ve kind already touched on this one in the last section but it is something you need to consider depending on what your needs are so it should be singled out.

As a hiker, normally I drive to a parking area and hike up into the mountains carrying all that I need with me. That’s the norm for me. Therefore, I need something sensible in terms of weight.

Photo Credit: Kevin Dooley

If we go back to the base-camp type idea, weight shouldn’t be an issue as you’re driving to your camp to set it up or you may not have too far to carry it, so it is reasonable that a larger tent could be carried by splitting the parts up among a group till you reach your campsite.

Work out what you need and pay attention to the weight accordingly.

Features to Look out for

Height

In terms of hiking, assuming we’re carrying all our gear on our back, I don’t personally think this is a big one. Height comes into play more with Cabin style tents. As there are near vertical walls, this means that in a tent for multiple people, you can more or less stand up and walk about inside it.

Photo Credit: Karunakar Rayker

Handy if you are holidaying with the family or you can drive your tent to your campsite to set it up. However, in terms of hiking, I think the dome is the better option. You can get small cabin tents but the shape of the dome style tent is better suited to stand against tougher conditions so in my opinion, it’s the better choice for the hiker / backpacker.

Photo Credit: Vastateparkstaff

The Dome style tent is tallest in the center but slopes away from that point down. Remember the primary aim of the Dome is greater protection and shelter. To check the height on your tent when purchasing, look for something called ‘Peak Height’ in the specs. This is the highest height of the tent.

Length

The length of the base of your tent is of course important, especially if you’re above average height. Similarly if for some reason you need more space in your tent you will likely need more length. Tent length, as with height, will vary e.g. 86”, 88”, 90″ etc.

Again, if this is something you need to think about, be sure to get the measuring tape out and do what you need to do to work it out.

Doors

Every tent of course has a door or doors to get in and out. These will be more pronounced in cabin style tents where more space and, potentially, walking internally is required. In short, the bigger the tent, the more doors there should be.

Photo Credit: DanLoaTmba

If there are more than two people in a tent, it is good to have at the very least two doors, it would be very unusual if there wasn’t. The reason for this is that if you need to get up in the middle of the night for a nature call, you can exit from one side, the most convenient one, disturbing as few people as possible in the process.

It’s worth looking for good zippers for doors too and preferably ones that aren’t overly noisy.

Tent Poles

This is one area that has really came along in leaps and bounds over the years I think. Most modern tents are first and foremost freestanding. What does that mean?

Well, I can pop my tent up and then once it is in the desired shape, I can simply lift it up and move it about to my preferred spot before I pitch it in the final location with pegs. This is really handy and although this is the norm these days, it wasn’t always so 🙂 I can remember struggling with tents as a kid when I was out camping with my older brother.

Another cool thing that has really came on leaps and bounds is the option to clip-in poles in as opposed to slide them through lots of slots. A mix of the two is quite common to provide the best level of stability. In short this makes the whole setting up and pitching process that much easier and faster. Finally, as a last general rule, the fewer the poles the better.

It’s worth taking a look at how the poles work with the tent you’re purchasing. Try and imagine this, you’ve been out hiking all day, planning to camp for a few days. You’ve just got to your camp later than you planned, it’s really windy, it’s pouring rain and you just want to get a hot drink and get wrapped up in bed. The last thing you need is to have to wrestle and fiddle with a complicated pole set-up in your tent, trust me 🙂

The Rainfly

Next up we have the Rainfly. This is a separate cover that basically keeps all the nasty stuff out. It fits over your tent to provide extra protection from rain or other damp conditions.

There are two main types, roof only and full coverage. The latter of course provides the most protection so again, based on all the previous factors, have a think on what you need it for. For me, the full coverage is the better option but whatever suits you best.

Material and Fabric

When looking at this area there are two things to think about 1. Denier fabric and 2. Seam taping. The higher Denier the fabric, the tougher the weather the tent can withstand. Seam taping is probably the strongest way that seams on your tent can be sealed again ensuring you’re protected inside.

You want your tent to be tough and strong even in good weather so check out the fabric and materials on all the areas of your tent in particular the base of your tent and rain flies.

Vestibules

A vestibule is exactly what it says on the tin. A small porch type area in your tent. In bigger cabin tents these are very substantial and you can comfortably walk about them before entering the main tent proper.

In smaller domes tents, these are usually to the side of the tent beside the door and are small with only enough space to store your stuff e.g. leave your dirty hiking boots in to be protected from the rain but not to be taken inside to muddy the inside of the tent.

The vestibule in a dome tent can also be a nice little thing to have shelter to cook up a hot drink. Now, as a general rule, you should always cook well away from your tent as if a naked flame catches it, the tent will be eradicated very quickly. I kid you not, I have seen one being set alight as a test and it was obliterated in seconds once the flame caught hold.

However, I have been camping in conditions where the rain was so bad that it would have been highly unpleasant to get a hot drink together in it. The benefit of the hot drink would have been wiped out by the soaking. In those cases I have used the edge of the vestibule as a cooking spot.

Far enough away from the tent, on a two person tent, but close enough so my whole body doesn’t have to sit in the rain. In fairness, that’s where something like Barocook flameless cooking can really come in handy so you don’t have to use any naked flames to cook.

Air Vents

These will normally be in the roof of the tent and the door. In bigger tents they can also be added in as part of the windows.

The general rule here, the hotter the conditions you will be camping in, the more air vents you will want.

Storage Space and Hooks

Most tents will have some kind of storage space built into the tent. For example, pockets along the side of the inside of the tent are common as are nifty little lofts at the top for putting stuff onto or hanging something on.

These are very handy, especially in smaller tents where you can put a few critical items where they are easily accessible, for example a headlamp. These are definitely worth looking out for.

Guy Out Loops

These are important for very bad weather as they enable you to tie the tent down effectively and stop any part of it from flapping in the wind. In terms of hiking and backpacking, look out for good ones.

Accessories

There are all sorts of tent accessories you can opt for. Again it really depends on what kind of camping you’re planning on doing. If you’re in a big cabin tent on a leisurely trekking holiday in a big campsite, having things like a ventilation unit, table and chairs, etc. are surely a fine thing to have.

In terms of hiking / backpacking, most of these types of things aren’t necessary and are not practical to carry. The one thing that is worth considering is getting a tent repair kit.

If you’re going out into the wilderness for a week and your tent gets damaged three days into it, it is of course a good option to be able to fix it.

Check out the video below for a summary of how to choose a tent, it covers all the main points we have touched on in this post but will also help refresh your mind visually.

Conclusion

Wow, I started writing this and it just seemed to go on and on lol. Buying a tent is something that it is worth taking time on. You’re probably not planning to head away camping tomorrow morning do you likely have time to do some proper research and I strongly recommend that.

I will be adding up some good tent options onto the site in the coming weeks and months in the form of reviews. They will give a very specific set of product recommendations but in the meantime, I hope this guide gets you started on the process of picking a good tent to ensure you have many happy and comfortable nights out underneath the stars.

What do you think, have I missed anything in this post? Are there other key functionality you like a tent to have? I’d love to hear about it in the comments below and please feel free to share this post.

How To Choose Hiking Socks

Some time back I did a post on hiking socks and how they are so very important to having a comfortable experience on the trail. Some time after that I also wrote a post about how I normally wear my hiking socks using two pairs.

The two pairs of socks strategy works well in winter time but it is not as sensible in warmer times of the year. I was recently reminded of this when I had a rash on my ankle after a long hike with the two pairs of socks on. However, truth be told, I have got that rash once or twice before, even at colder times of year.

Perhaps it was a question of the detergent I was using and / or the material the hiking socks are made of, not 100% sure just yet.

Either way, I decided recently that I wanted to revisit the subject of hiking socks for myself and do a bit more in depth research before I venture into trying something different with what I have and / or purchasing more pairs. With that in mind I thought a guide on how to choose hiking socks might be useful.

Photo Credit: Lisa Williams

I’ve said it many times before but I’ll say it again,. You can have the best hiking boots in the world but if you’ve got crap socks, you will not have a fun time and blister central is probably not far away … the nemesis of all hikers!

Choosing Hiking Socks

When looking at choosing hiking socks, I thought the first place to start would be to look at what specifically hiking socks need to be able to do as part of your footwear system.

The primary functions of your hiking socks are:

To wick sweat away from your feet
Provide cushioning and protection
Provide warmth
Help with the fit of a hiking boot

Types of Hiking Socks

There are different types of hiking socks that, broadly speaking, serve different purposes although some of them can compliment one another. Note that within each of these main categories below there are different material levels and make-ups involved.

There may be several different types of thickness available in one sock category for example.

Wicking Socks

These are a lightweight inner sock made from a wicking fabric. The fabric draws moisture away from your feet and so helps to prevent blisters. Common materials that these socks are made from are lightweight wool and polypropylene as they are smooth against the skin and so cause less friction on your skin. They are therefore more comfortable and so also help stop our old friend mister blister from calling round.

I’ve put a picture of a pair of my inner socks below.

Summer Socks

Summer socks are normally made from wool or a wool / nylon mix. Oddly, although it may seem contrary to common sense, wool works well in warm weather as it has the ability to wick moisture away from your feet. Wool also tends to be more comfortable than synthetic materials like nylon however the trade-off is longevity.

A pair of mixed blend socks will last longer than wool alone but may not be as comfortable on your skin. Wool socks are normally accompanied by wearing an inner lightweight wicking sock although you may find this too much in Summer.

My ones above are 1000 miles socks and they have two layers built into one sock so you have your wicking sock against your skin and the outer sock together as one sock.

Three Season Socks

Well, the name gives it away really 🙂

Yes indeed, these are socks that are suitable to hike in for three seasons in the year, Spring, Summer and Autumn (and winter in many countries too) assuming you’re in a relatively temperate climate. The difference between these and summer socks will be that that they are thicker. The same materials, as with summer socks, apply.

As already mentioned, you can use these in summer too. So, why have separate summer socks then? Well, it really comes down to what is comfortable for you and nothing much more than that really. If you’re hiking in very hot conditions, you might find the lighter summer sock a better option. However, it’s trade-off time again, and if you choose the lighter summer sock option you will lose a bit of the comfort and blister protection that the extra cushioning a thicker three season sock would give you.

These socks are also longer lasting than the aforementioned summer ones, mainly as they’re thicker. As with summer socks, using an inner liner sock in tandem with these is best.

Winter Socks

And now to our final guest at the party. Winter socks are, you guessed it, heavier and thicker than the three season socks for obvious reasons. They are designed to provide more warmth in colder conditions but still perform the wicking duties as required.

You definitely need to have a pair of inner liner wicking socks to accompany these in Winter. These provide wicking and much more warmth and protection. To be honest, when you’re using winter socks, you are probably hiking in temperatures well below freezing.

Three season socks with a good inner line wicking sock should work fine in winter in many countries. If you’re hitting the big freeze temperatures on the mercury, then you need these bad boys for sure. You probably also need very tough winter mountaineering boots to go with them but that’s for another post 🙂

It’s worth noting that when you’re choosing hiking boots, you should take both your lightest / thinnest and heaviest / thickest socks with you to try on with your boots. The reason for this is that there is a significant difference between wearing a summer hiking sock combination and a winter hiking sock combination.

While you may have a great fit with your summer sock, the extra thickness of the winter sock may cause issues. The last thing you want is any restriction on blood circulation. I think it is reasonable to expect to have a pair of hiking boots that can work well with both.

Conclusion

So, as you can see, there is a bit of thought needed when choosing your hiking socks, it isn’t totally black and white when making a choice for what works best for you and your hiking boots. As with anything related to hiking, what the conditions you will be hiking in are should be key to your decision making process. Inevitably you will end up with a mix of all the above in some form.

As mentioned at the start of this post, I have been getting a bit of a rash on my ankles from using my two pairs of socks, inner wicking socks and outer three season socks, together so I think I need to revisit what I am doing. I assume it’s just that it’s too warm in there so either the inner wicking socks ain’t doing their wicking or the outer three season socks are just too warm. That wouldn’t seem to make much sense to me though as they’re three season socks and they didn’t cause me problems before.

I’m tempted just to head out with only the three season socks this weekend and see how I get on. Might work just fine. So, as you can see, even after my many years of hiking it’s still a process of trial and error to eventually come to something that works for me. It can always change as you get new boots, maybe your skin changes somewhat as you get older, who knows! I’ll drop an update back to this post on how I got on with my experiment!

I hope this rough guide on how to choose hiking socks, gives you some help in understanding which socks you should choose and what general options you have available to you. Socks are crucial to your comfort so it is worth spending a bit of time getting it right I feel.

What hiking sock combination do you use? I’d love to hear thoughts in the comments below. If you found this post useful, please like it and share it out, thanks 🙂

What Does 2, 2.5 And 3 Layer Construction In A Rain Jacket Mean?

When you’re looking to buy a waterproof jacket for the trail, you will no doubt come up against a whole bunch of Jargon explaining the functional capabilities of the jacket in question.

One common phrase in the context of waterproof hiking jackets is that they are either 2, 2.5 or 3 layer (Aka ply). Today I want to try and delve into that a bit more to try and explain what exactly those three descriptions mean.

Water Repellency and Breathability

The first place to start is with what a good outdoor rain jacket is trying to achieve. There are two core functions, the first is that the jacket of course needs to be waterproof to keep any nasty weather at bay.

The second key element is that the jacket should ideally have some level of breathability.

This means that the material in the jacket is made in such a way so large molecules like water can’t get in but smaller vapor molecules, from your sweat, can get out.

$Gore-Tex$

Photo Credit: GORE-TEX®

In terms of a rain jacket, it will utilize a technology like Gore-tex (Microporous PTFE (polytetrafluorethylene) laminate), pictured above, in some form.

2 layer

When a jacket is two layer, it means that a protective inner coating is bonded to a face fabric like nylon or polyester.

A 2 layer jacket is usually treated with a DWR coating. This provides what is referred to as Durable Water Repellency (DWR). DWR enables water to bead on your jacket and roll off.

A DWR protective coating is usually used in conjunction with a breathable fabric like Gore-Tex. The purpose of the Gore-tex is to stop water from getting into the interior of a jacket, while the DWR element aims to repel water from the outside by the aforementioned beading process.

The jacket therefore has two layers as such. The outer fabric with the protective DWR coating and then an inner layer, usually made with some kind of sewn-in lining like mesh or nylon.

As there are two layers, the jacket is usually quite flexible.

Pros:

Flexible Material
Probably the cheapest option
Comfortable

Cons:

Not as breathable as 3-ply
Not as durable as 3-ply jackets
Won’t give the same level of protection as 3-ply

2.5 Layer

When a jacket is 2.5 layer, the first layer employs a similar fabric, as used in a 2 layer jacket, with a coating applied inside that outer layer as the second layer. The half layer refers to a printed or sprayed-on partially protective layer that is applied over the second layer, all in all looking like one complete layer.

This sprayed on layer provides the DWR capability to enable the water to bead on your jacket and roll off.

A 2.5 layer jacket should be quite flexible and comfortable to wear. This option is probably the standard make-up of most average rain jackets.

Pros:

Flexible Material
Lightest option
Probably the most packable option
Cheaper than 3 layer
Most quality in relation to price

Cons:

Not as breathable as 3 layer
Not as durable as 3 layer
Won’t give the same level of protection as 3-ply

3 Layer

When a jacket is three Layer, it means that the PTFE membrane is laminated between the face fabric and a protective knit backing as opposed to on top of it with two layer.

The jacket then has three layers as such, the outer fabric, the protective coating in the middle and then an inner layer usually made with some kind of sewn-in lining like mesh or nylon. However it should all still broadly work, look and feel like one layer.

As there are more layers in the fabric, the 3 layer jacket is usually stiffer and crispier than 2 or 2.5 layer jackets. Jackets made from 3 layer usually offer much tougher protection from the elements and they have a longer life.

Pros:

Very durable
High level of protection from the elements
Long life

Cons:

Most expensive option
Usually bulkier and heavier

Which One Should I Go With?

I think as general rule, for most average hikers, a standard rain jacket made with a 2.5 layer construction should provide more than enough waterproof protection.

If however, you require a jacket that needs to take a lot of punishment on a daily basis, say if you work in the outdoors leisure industry and regular inclement weather is a regular occurrence, the more expensive 3 layer might be the better option.

It is worth noting though, that no jacket is invincible and even a 3 layer jacket will wet out. A jacket ‘Wets’ out’ when it ceases to vent your sweat and perspiration as the humidity in the environment outside your jacket is greater than the inside.

As a final note on that matter, how you protect your rain jacket, whether it’s 2, 2.5 or 3 layer is critical to how long it will last. In short, look after it!

Our Top Men's Rain Jacket Pick: Marmot Minimalist

A really nice rain jacket for the trail from the rain shell category. Functional and versatile, it is an excellent choice that will meet most needs of most hikers.

Conclusion

I suggest that most hikers should be fine with a standard 2.5 layer rain jacket. They're probably the most economical and you get the most bang for your buck! You can check out some top-rated rain jackets here.

Don’t get me wrong though, if you have the money and you would like to invest in a really tough jacket that should last you a very long time, 3-ply is a grand option. It will give you a lot of protection and the jacket will have a very long life. Remember though, none of them are invincible and if the rain is heavy enough you will still likely get wet at some point.

I hope you found this post useful and are a bit clearer on what the difference is between 2, 2.5 and 3 layer jackets are.

Any comments or thoughts on this, please leave them in the comments below!

What Is A Sleeping Bag Liner?

Recently, I’ve done a couple of posts on how to kit yourself out with appropriate sleeping kit if you plan to camp out while out on the trail. So far we’ve looked at how best to choose a sleeping bag and the necessity of a camping roll mat.

You can get away with a good bag and a roll mat for a reasonably good nights sleep on the trail but one final accessory that I want to look at today is a sleeping bag liner.

So What is a Sleeping Bag Liner?

A sleeping bag liner is kind of like a bed sheet for a sleeping bag. It has the same shape as a sleeping and you use it in the same way and in conjunction with your sleeping bag.

Basically you put your sleeping bag liner inside your sleeping bag and get into it in exactly the same manner as you would your sleeping bag. This provides a liner or sheet between you and your sleeping bag?

As with Sleeping bag’s, sleeping bag liners can come in different shapes and sizes.

When referring to shapes, I am talking here of either Rectangular or Mummy. These are the two most common shapes of sleeping bags so it makes sense to get a sleeping bag liner in the same shape as your sleeping bag.

Pictured above is the Cocoon Silk MummyLiner. Silk is an excellent although more expensive option for a liner.

Pictured above is the ALPS Mountaineering MicroFiber Rectangle Sleeping Bag Liner. Another excellent liner choice if you don’t want to spend extra for the silk option.

Similarly, with regards to size, if you get one that fits the size of your bag, and assuming you’ve already checked that you into fit your bag of course 🙂 , it should be a comfortable fit for your body.

This may seem like stating the obvious but I have a friend who just picked up a cotton sleeping bag liner in a store without checking the size of it. I have no idea why! Long story short, it was way too small for him as he’s a big guy. It was more or less useless then.

What’s the Point of it?

Well, as far as camping goes, the main advantage is that it keeps your sleeping bag from getting dirty or sweaty from the inside. After a days hiking, chances are you’re not going to be the cleanest you’ve ever been. When you take off your gear and get into your sleeping bag, you don’t really want to have the dirt and sweat from the trail bonding with the inside of your sleeping bag.

Instead if you have a sleeping bag liner, it will do that for you and protect the inside of your bag. The main advantage of this is that a sleeping bag liner is pretty thin and lightweight. Therefore, it is a lot easier to wash a sleeping bag liner than having to wash a sleeping bag.

Using a liner will help cut down on the need to wash your bag as much as you would need to if you didn’t use one.

Finally, a liner will add a little extra bit of warmth to your nights sleep so it’s worth keeping that in mind too. It is no way enough on it’s own but it will add a marginal amount more to the performance of your sleeping bag.

Are they Heavy?

No, Sleeping bag liners are designed to be lightweight so they don’t add much weight to your pack. As already mentioned, they’re similar to a bed sheet in thickness and they usually come in a carry case which it rolls neatly up into (see bag in mummy picture above).

They are usually made from either cotton or silk. My understanding is that the silk one is lighter, a little less bulkier, stronger and probably a little more comfortable than the cotton ones available. The silk one also dries quicker than a cotton one and handles temperature changes a bit better.

The one I have is a cotton one and it worked just fine. I’ve used it in the huts in the Alps as well as camping and it worked perfectly.

How Much are They?

A sleeping bag liner should definitely not break the bank. For a cotton one, you are looking at anywhere from $20.00 to $40.00. As mentioned above, is you want a silk one, they are more expensive and you’re talking anywhere from $50.00 to $80.00.

Other Uses

A sleeping bag liner is not only advantageous while making camp. As I wrote about a few months back I climbed Mont Blanc in the Alps. As part of that I stayed in the ‘huts’. Huts are accommodation you can book to stay in while hiking in the Alps.

The huts are basic but comfortable and they provide beds which will have some form of bedding. However, we were advised to take a sleeping bag liner with us as recently the powers that be were saying that a sleeping bag liner was a requirement.

Now, it seems this latest requirement is not always enforced and no-one checked when I was there. However, regardless I was grateful to have one with me anyway as I imagine the beds in the huts get a lot of traffic through them. I have no doubt they’re washed regularly enough but having your own protective barrier in the form of a sleeping bag liner was definitely a good idea.

Extending on from this use, I really see that if you are planning to do some backpacking, or perhaps a longer trek like the Camino de Santiago on which you plan to stay in the Auberges (hostels), utilizing a sleeping bag liner would seem to make a lot of practical sense. Those beds will have a lot of traffic through them so I think it’s nice to have your own protective sleeping layer.

Conclusion

If you’re going to head out for a nights camping or if you’re planning to do a bit of backpacking and stay in hostels as you travel, a sleeping bag liner is a good addition to your kit. They’re practical and they don’t cost the earth so I recommend looking into getting one.

Now, for longer backpacking trips where you’re carrying all your kit on your back, in truth, a sleeping bag liner probably takes up too much valuable space which could be used to carry something much more functional. However, they are still worth a look when kitting your sleeping system out.

So, that’s pretty much all I wanted to cover with regards to sleeping kit for a nights camping on the trail. With a good sleeping bag, camping roll mat and a sleeping bag liner, you should have the guts of what you need for a reasonable nights sleep under the stars in your tent.

Do you use a sleeping bag liner? Cotton or Silk? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below!